made with a lower numbered filter that will lower the contrast. If the original test print does not have enough contrast,  change  to  a  filter  with  a  higher  number  to increase the contrast. Making a Test Print The printing exposure is the operation most likely to cause you trouble. Unlike most films that can tolerate some  overexposure  and  underexposure  and  still  yield usable  photographs,  printing  papers  must  be  exposed correctly to produce good prints. Experience and familiarity with printing equipment does help, but for the beginner, the correct exposure for prints from most negatives is best determinedly making test  prints. The  density  of  a  negative  is  a  variable  you  must consider. Negative density can be determined by making a few test exposures. The exposure time for a negative of average density may be about one to three seconds. If the negative is large, avoid the expensive and wasteful temptation of using a whole sheet of paper. Instead, use a strip about 2 inches wide and as long as the negative for the test exposure. For example, an 8- x 10-inch sheet of paper can be cut into three or four small strips. After  you  have  determined  the  filter  and  the  test exposure  time,  set  the  timer  for  the  estimated  test exposure   time.   Place   the   paper   test   strip   over   the negative in the printing position. Place the test strip on the   negative   so   the   test   exposure   includes   some highlights, midtones and shadow areas. Hold the paper in position with one hand and lower the platen into the printing position. As soon as the platen grips the edge of the  paper,  move  your  hand  out  of  the  way.  When  the platen is fully lowered, turn on the printing lights for the test exposure time. When the test strip has been exposed, develop it for the  recommended  time.  If  the  image  is  too  dark  the exposure  was  too  long.  If  the  image  is  too  light,  the exposure was too short. It is difficult for even an experienced photographer to judge the contrast of a print that has been under- or overexposed. If the test print is too light or too dark the exposure should be changed until the proper density is reached  with  normal  development  before  you  attempt  to judge the contrast of the print. A normally exposed print develops gradually, but steadily — shadows first, then midtones,  and  finally  highlights.  The  image  should appear in about 30 seconds, providing that the developer is at the proper strength and temperature. If the image develops very quickly with a general mottling, it was overexposed  and  the  next  test  should  be  given  less exposure. When you have produced a satisfactory test print, you can make your production prints from that negative. If you use a printing frame (glass and pad or proof printer) to make contact prints, the most convenient and economical  way  to  determine  exposure  and  connect contrast is to expose the test strip in progressive steps of, for example, two, four, six and eight seconds. This is done by holding an opaque card on top of the glass and covering three quarters of the paper and exposing one-quarter of the paper for two seconds. The card is then moved to cover one-half of the paper and giving it an additional exposure of two seconds. Move the card so it rovers one-quarter of the paper and give it another two seconds of exposure. Finally, remove the card and give the entire sheet one last exposure of two seconds. This will show a distinct progression of exposures of two, four, six and eight seconds (fig. 11-31). Develop the  test  strip  normally  and  determine  the  correct exposure by visual examination in white light. If the correct exposure appears to be between two steps, the required exposure can usually be estimated with  some  accuracy.  However,  further  test  prints  maybe needed. Exposing and Processing Prints When  a  test  print  develops  in  the  recommended time, rinse it in the stop bath, immerse it in the fixing bath for about 30 seconds, rinse it in fresh water, and inspect it carefully under white light. If the density and contrast  of  the  image  look  correct  under  white  light, make your first “straight print.” Place  the  sheet  of  printing  paper,  emulsion-side down,  over  the  negative  in  the  printing  position  by aligning  the  paper  edges  with  the  paper  stops  on  the mask (if a mask is used). Hold the paper in the printing position with one hand to keep it from slipping out of place when the platen first presses against the edge of the  paper,  and  start  the  printing  cycle  as  described before. After the printing cycle is completed, remove the paper  for  processing.  Any  number  of  duplicate  prints can be made by repeating the printing cycle. Drop  the  print,  emulsion-side  down,  into  the developer. Immerse it immediately with a quick sliding motion   while   pushing   it   under   the   surface   of   the solution. Grasp one edge of the print, lift it up, and turn it over. Replace the print, emulsion up, on the surface of 11-34