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Automatic Electronic Flash Units
Figure 5-27.Effects of direct, diffused and bounce flash

Photography (Basic) - Introduction to photography and other graphic techniques
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Figure 5-26.–Manual exposure scale. When the flash unit is in the manual mode, the f/stop must  be  changed  each  time  the  flash-to-subject  distance changes. A scale on the flash unit indicates the proper f/stop to use for the various distances. To determine the flash-to-subject distance for on-camera flash, focus on the subject and read the distance directly from the focusing  ring  on  the  camera.  Figure  5-26  indicates  with IS0 100 film at full power the proper aperture setting at 10 feet is between f/11 and f/16.4 feet is f/32, 40 feet is f/2.8, and so forth. SINGLE FLASH The majority of your indoor photographs will be produced   using   a   single-flash   unit.   Numerous reenlistments,  frockings,  and  promotion  ceremonies  are conducted indoors where the lighting conditions are unfavorable for available light photography. There are various methods in which a single flash can be used to produce  high-quality  professional  photographs  that distinguish  you,  the  Photographer's  Mate,  from  the amateur  snapshooter. On  Camera  Flash A commonly used flash technique is to have the flash unit attached to the camera in synchronization with the shutter and aimed directly at a subject. An advantage of having your flash unit attached to the camera is it provides you the chance to capture the unexpected-the truly candid shot. When spontaneity sparks the action and quick-camera handling is a must, the fewer pieces of equipment you have to worry about or handle the better. Rather than two pieces of gear-the camera and the flash-you have only one-the camera with the flash attached to it; however, this technique usually produces objectionable  shadows  behind  the  subject. To help reduce the harshness of the shadows produced behind your subject when a single flash is used at the camera, place some diffusion material, such as a white  handkerchief,  cheesecloth,  or  frosted  cellulose acetate, in front of the flash. Of course, diffusion reduces the intensity of the light, and the exposure has to be increased  accordingly  when  using  the  manual  mode  on the flash unit. Most  imaging  facilities  are  equipped  with  flash brackets. When you are using a flash bracket, it is possible to rotate the flash when changing formats from horizontal  to  vertical.  When  shooting  people  in  the vertical format using a flash unit, always position the flash above the lens. If the flash is below the lens, long objectional shadows are cast behind the subject, and the subject  has  an  unnatural,  eerie,  sinister  effect. Red Eye A result that may appear with direct flash is “red eye.” Red eye occurs in pictures of people and animals when the flash is used close to the optical  axis  of  the  lens  and  the  subject  is  looking at the camera. Light reflecting from the blood vessels at the back of the eye causes this effect. The darker the room is, the stronger the effect, because the pupils of the eyes become more dilated. Red eye can easily be avoided by moving the flash away from the lens optical axis.  Also,  the  effects  of  red  eye  can  be minimized by turning up the room lights. Bounce  Flash One of the better methods to illuminate a subject or scene with a single-flash unit is to use bounce flash. There are times when you want a very soft light in order to  lessen  the  tonal  range  between  highlights  and shadows and to soften harsh background shadows. You can achieve this soft lighting by bouncing, or reflecting, the flash off a light-colored surface. By doing so, you are changing the narrow spot of light from a flash unit into a wide diffused area of light. When shooting color film, avoid colored walls and ceilings. They reflect their color onto the subject, causing a color cast over the entire subject area. You should use bounce flash in all 5-32







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